11 Offline Things I Did This Week
Live from the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes
Good morning. I write to you from a cozy chair inside a 200-year-old farmhouse. I am up in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of France, 2,300 ft above sea level along the rolling hills and stunning cliffside mountains.
The roads here twist with such sharp bends that drivers need to make a 3-point turn to navigate them. Clusters of homes are tucked alongside the mountain range with communal bread ovens and tubs for both potable water and non-potable water (used for washing). Just amazing.
I was invited to stay here by my friends Kris and Marina who are interested in having me run a retreat here in 2026 (would you want to come?) They renovated the farmhouse (while preserving its beauty) and understand both the land and the community; essential for sustaining respectful and conscious tourism.
They both grew up in Europe and have done lots of traveling throughout their lives. After trying out Airbnb for a few years, they found it too transactional and often felt it was bringing the wrong kind of tourism and consumption to this special area.
Now, they run 12 retreats a year here, which is a curated 4-day, 5-night stay in their farmhouse, with them as your guides (the best part).
They asked me to come and experience one of their retreats (of course I couldn’t say no) so I bought my own plane ticket and asked my bestie to accompany me.
They never asked me to post anything and they certainly are not paying me, but they’ve been hosting my best friend and I (and another couple, the house sleeps up to 8!) for the week. The beauty of these mountains and the generosity of Marina and Kris (with their time, attentiveness, genuine kindness, and concern) has left me dumbfounded and inspired. Before I arrived, we had a call and they asked me what I’d like to do. Well, I won’t list it here, you can read it below. Again, none of this is sponsored in any way. Marina & Kris are just a creative couple who are passionate about showing young people the Alps through their eyes: food, sauna, beauty, nature, and activity.
If you want to check out what they do, head to their website.
They did not pay me or ask me to include anything about them on my socials, they simply wanted me to experience it and see if it would be a good fit for an Offline Time retreat. But I’d be remiss if I didn’t shout them out. I’m thrilled to be here and blown away by my stay. Guided travel is so different from solo or group trips—I haven’t had to think about where to go, what to eat, or how to rent skis because it’s all seamlessly planned. Simply put, I wouldn’t be experiencing the Alps this way without Marina & Kris.
Skiied the Alps. I’ve been skiing my whole life; my parents put me on skis when I was just a little girl. My dad would “accidentally” put me on a black diamond and guide me down, telling me “You can do it”. I was mad then but today I’m grateful.
10,000 ft above sea level! Ski toured (Ski de randonnée). Yesterday, we went ski touring, which means we used special skis with free-moving heels that let us hike uphill. Once at the top, we locked the heels in place and skied back down.
We climbed 4 miles up a mountain. My arms are sore today. Ran 7 miles to an alpine lake. I slipped twice, but the views were so worth it. I've never seen an alpine lake in person, and it was just as magnificent and serene as I thought it’d be. My bestie joined me on the run and Kris guided us. He told me in the summer, he and Marina love to swim in this crystal-clear water. Heavenly.
Lac de Buclet Visited the Saturday morning market at Bourg d’Oisans. I don’t think I’ve ever properly shopped at a French farmer’s market. I wanted to bring home the stunning leeks and winter lettuces, to be honest, but I knew that wouldn’t fly with customs. Instead, I bought bars of handmade soaps that Marina recommended. They smell incredible.
Got a little French pharmacy haul. What is a visit to France with a visit to the pharmacy? I read
’s post on what to buy at the French pharmacy and took it from there. Skincare formulations in France are better—they allow ingredients the U.S. bans and ban ingredients the U.S. allows. Here’s my haul:
Ate ham, cheese, and butter on a baguette at 7,000 feet at “Le Spot”. Le Spot is one of the catine des piste” along the mountain, offering beer, fries, crêpes, and baguettes to skiiers along the slopes. It’s situated on a ridge pretty high up that gets direct sunlight, so somehow, it’s warm. It’s only outdoor dining; everyone sits in a chair and relaxes as music plays through the speakers. The vibe is 10/10.
Picked up local walnut mustard and crozets. Crozets are a special little pasta native to this area in France. They are square and come in regular, wheat, and green. You bake them with Beaufort AOP, garlic, and cream to make a pasta gratin. I can’t wait to make this back in New York to remember my time here.
Ate a picnic in the valley. The best part about France is that a sturdy, satisfying, and quality lunch can be situated in under 10 minutes. The French often have good cheese, butter, pickles, and cured meats on hand, and all you need to do is pick up a fresh baguette or two (or in Marina’s case, she buys her baguettes from the bakery half-baked so all she needs to do is throw them in the oven before serving!) Marina grew up in France and I will certainly be picking up this tip to take back with me to the states!
Our alpine picnic! Made best friends with Lloyd. Lloyd has been a very important part of this trip. He was found abandoned by a neighbor in the Alps and Kris took him in. He is the sweetest, most loyal, kind, and well-behaved dog I’ve ever met. He comes on most of our adventures (dog culture here is clutch). And of course, petting a warm snuggly dog helps me feel better when I miss Samson who’s back home in the states.
Woke up every morning with this view.
Ate at an Alpine restaurant run entirely by one woman—she owns it, cooks, serves, busses, and even runs your credit card. I had bœuf bourguignon à l orange with a vegetable lasagne and endive salad. Ended the evening with espresso and “hot chocolate” poured over a spiced cake and homemade whipped cream.
I could have kept going with this list; we’ve done so many amazing things on this trip. But we’ve got another full day of skiing ahead of us and I need to head downstairs for breakfast. Thank you for reading, as always. And please, if you enjoyed this newsletter, share it with a friend.
xoxoxo
This sounds like the best life. Would just adore to experience it! Thank you for sharing. Will stay tuned for news on whether you do a retreat :)
Peanut butter and JEALOUS!!
Also this is incredible. I can almost smell the mountain air!